Kamakwie | 22nd May 2020 | Vertex Media

I have just returned from an assignment in all 13 Chiefdoms of Karene District, North-Western Sierra Leone. My trip started off from Romende, to Buya, to Safroko, to Dibia, to Sanda Magborlorthor, to Mafonda Makerembay, to Libeisaygahun/Gbomgbahun, to Sanda Tendaran, to Gbanti, to Sanda Loko, to Sella Limba, to Tambakha Simibungie, and to Tambakha Yobangie Chiefdoms.

It’s so difficult to navigate Karene District. The District has the worst road networks from the places I have visited in the country so far. With about 5 manual or local ferry crossing points, including the Mabanta ferry, Maborleh ferry, Thomparay ferry, Kabba ferry, etc. Karene is literally an abandoned District, nothing to write home about.

The Chiefdom stretches from northwest of the country, starting from Feredugu, bordering Tonkolili and Port Loko Districts in the south, bordering Bombali District in the east, Kambia District in the west, and the Republic of Guinea in the north of Karene District. The District Headquarter town of Kamakwie is as deplorable as the other towns in the District.

I twisted my assignment (visit) to something fun but so excruciating. After terminating my assignment at Yana in the Tambakha Yobangie Chiefdom, few miles to Guinea, I decided to stop by the famous Outtamba Kilimi National Park. Just as the rest of the Tambakha Yobangie Chiefdom, it was disappointing to see how poor the road leading to the park was. The terrain will prevent you from visiting there again, but it’s good to try though, it’s a jungle. I was satisfied that I made the trip to this famous park that houses some of the wildest animals in the country.

The park is in a forest that covers tens of miles, banking the Kabba Ferry river (Great Scarcies river). I got to the other part of the river bank, opposite the park. That is where the forest guards are. It is an eco touristic-like setting, with an abandoned 32 room office near it.

I wanted to cross over the river and enter the park, but there was no available canoe to do so, which was away and was expected back in one hour time. I was heading to Makeni and it was getting late, so I have to cut the visit short but not without interviewing the guards.

Mohamed and Ibrahim were the guards on duty who welcomed us (me and the Okada rider). Mohamed was already leaving when we arrived, so I have to engage Ibrahim to learn more about the park. The first thing he told was that “the park is vanishing.” “This is not the Outtamba Kilimi you used to hear,” he added. Ibrahim told me how most of the animals that used to stay in the park have crossed over to Guinea due to the massive logging going on in the forest that holds the park. According to him, these animals left because of the loggers and poachers. The only easily found animals are the hippos, few monkeys, elephants, chimps. He told me they have proven that a lion lived in the park before now. But most of the animals have left and migrated north to Guinea.

Ibrahim explained that they heard a story of how a whole village was deserted after dozens of migrating elephants stormed the village and later headed to Guinea.

According to him, they tried their best to stop the logging but it proved futile. Saying that most of the loggers are top government authorities who normally threatened that they would lose their jobs if they continue to prevent them from logging. He told me that most of the forest is now being cleared. I felt so bad about our tourism industry. In all the discussion, he kept emphasising that “the park is vanishing.”

I had to leave Outtamba Kilimi disappointed, and galloping the rough terrain to Kamakwie. To be honest, when you get to those places, the people are more identical with Guinea than Sierra Leone. That place is abandoned by the Sierra Leone government. Don’t ask me about mobile networks or other facilities. Everything about Tambakha is just pathetic. I wish I can best describe how deplorable that part of the country is.

On the positive side, you will fall in love with nature when you visit there. The rivers, hills, the cattle, and more.

Ibrahim Sorious Samura